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| TIPS & ADVICE |
Wine Cocktails
- by Paul Harrington |
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of the leading wine-drinking countries," wrote Murdock Pemberton in the Official Mixer's Manual of 1934. "The period of Prohibition provided mainly distilled spirits, any wine obtained usually being of a bad, if not outright harmful, quality. An entire generation was born and proceeded through a period of life when tastes are usually formed without much knowledge of honest, sound wine." Of course, the French insist that's still the case. But you can still stand behind cocktails made with wine for occasions that dictate a cut in one's alcohol intake or a change in one's habit.
Wine cocktails have a history that began long before the teetotalers' reign. In fact, the French are often credited with making the first of such drinks, known as Kir ("keer"). A blend of white wine and cassis, this cocktail was invented about 100 years ago to save the economy of a certain French appellation that had the misfortune of a miserable vintage. As the wine aged, it developed into an unpalatable brew. To save the region's vintners and their families from near starvation during the winter ahead, the local magistrate - led by the mayor of Dijon, Felix Kir - decreed that the wine could be mixed with the sweet liqueur cassis to make it sellable. To most everyone's surprise, a fantastic beverage was born that's still enjoyed today as an aperitif.
Kir, with its continued popularity, has transcended the realm of cocktails. Those who insist they never drink cocktails will often sip a Kir. Sympathetic bartenders add a dash of cassis to a glass of house wine that a thrifty patron dislikes but nonetheless orders. Take that as a clue: Quality wines should be enjoyed unadulterated and at the appropriate temperature for the varietal. Dumping syrups and fruit juices into a glass of fine champagne or a glass of chardonnay is a waste of the grape. |
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